A Cook’s Book: The Essential Nigel Slater with over 200 recipes

£15
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A Cook’s Book: The Essential Nigel Slater with over 200 recipes

A Cook’s Book: The Essential Nigel Slater with over 200 recipes

RRP: £30.00
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Stir in the cornflour and salt, making sure it is thoroughly combined, then pour the mixture into the lined cake tin. Slide carefully into the oven, place on top of the hot stone or baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, until the cake has risen a little and its surface is dark brown. The centre may quiver when shaken. A thoroughly good thing. Now turn off the heat and leave the cake to settle for a further 10 minutes. Remove the cake from the oven and leave to cool, then place, still in its tin, in the fridge. The word “crave” can carry the whiff of junk food devoured in times of stress or sadness. Ed Smith reframes it as the food our body – for any number of reasons – needs and wants. His introduction outlines six main “flavour profiles” we crave, including fresh and fragrant, chilli and heat, cheesy and creamy – and why. These flavour profiles become colour-coded chapters, their recipes precision engineered to hit their mark. Think three citrus salad; sriracha and lemon linguine with chilli pangrattato; cheesy polenta. CF Nigel’s recipes are often told as stories, as in his award-winning books Tender, the three-volume Kitchen Diariesand The Christmas Chronicles. Others are collections of simpler, more concise recipes to use as daily inspiration. These are published as Appetite, Eat and the recently published, vegetable-based GreenFeast. He has also written a best-selling memoir and a book of essays. Nigel's books have been translated into German, Russian*, Dutch, Portuguese, Korean, French and Taiwanese. His latest publication is A Cook's Book (2021).

Nigel has written hisweekly column for The Observer newspaper for almost thirty years. Itis his curiosity andfascination for details, his observationsof thesmall, human moments of cooking and eating that are the hallmarkofhis writing. The much-loved essays from his kitchen are photographed each week by Jonathan Lovekin. Your next choice, The Cook’s Companion, is by Stephanie Alexander – one of Australia’s most famous chefs. What can you tell me about this book? In 2020, most of us finally turned to that “one shelf in the pantry”, the one full of overlooked ingredients, and tried to make a meal. The shelves of Yotam Ottolenghi and his test kitchen team, led by Noor Murad, may have been better equipped than most, but in this guide to making the most of what you have, it’s inspiration that shines, rather than reliance on fancy ingredients. HOWhile the pasta cooks, warm the remaining tablespoon of oil in a shallow pan, add the reserved raw squid and the prawns and cook for 2 minutes, till lightly browned. Remove immediately. Thyme is the herb I use most often here. I stuff wisps of it deep into the chest cavity and squeeze a couple of sprigs into the pinch-point between leg and breast. Some cooks suggest pushing a herb or spice butter under the skin so the flesh is moistened continuously, and it is something well worth doing, but I am clumsy enough to tear the skin occasionally, which then shrinks and the naked flesh dries out as it cooks.

Peel and roughly chop the onions, then cook them in the oil in a deep pan over a moderate heat for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. It is a bible. And no, there are a lot of recipes in there. They vary from the basic classics, some very simple things, and then she’s got her recipes from her restaurants as well. It’s a colossal work. It must have taken her years. I think the really interesting bits of my story was growing up with this terribly dominating dad and a mum who I loved to bits but obviously I lost very early on; and then having to fight with the woman who replaced her ... I kind of think that in a way that that was partly what attracted me to working in the food service industry, was that I finally had a family." As he told The Observer, "The last bit of the book is very foody. But that is how it was. Towards the end I finally get rid of these two people in my life I did not like [his father and stepmother, who had been the family's cleaning lady] - and to be honest I was really very jubilant - and thereafter all I wanted to do was cook."

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If you are using fresh apricots, halve and stone them, then put them in a small saucepan, add the sugar and enough water to just cover the fruit and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes till the fruit is soft and tender. The apricots must be so soft you could crush them between your fingers. Drain them. There is something – and this is the point really – that goes hand-in-hand with making something to eat, that transcends putting the finished dish on the table. Cooking is about making yourself something to eat and sharing food with others but is also about the quiet moments of joy to be had along the way. Watching the progress of dinner as you stir onions in a pan, at first crisp, white and pungent – you may have shed a tear – then slowly becoming translucent gold, darkening to bronze, all the time becoming softer, sweeter. Take them too far though, and the sweet onions will turn bitter. And that is where a good recipe comes in and partly the point of what I do; to guide a new cook towards a pleasing dinner and, for those who have been cooking for years, to share a recipe they may not know.

Nigel Slater is the author of ten cookery books, a memoir and a collection of essays.His first book was published in 1992. All are still in print. If [your sourdough starter] doesn't rise and bubble when removed from the fridge, then it has probably passed away, and you should pour it down the sink. [Breaking Bread | A sourdough diary]

Rukmini Iyer’s mantra is “minimum effort, maximum return”. The fifth book in her Roasting Tin series, is true to form; the recipes – such as the chocolate salted caramel muffins – are delicious yet unfussy with minimal washing up. Helpfully, at the start of each chapter Iyer sets out a simple template that can be adjusted for the gluten-free, diabetic and vegan. Delicious, and accessible. MT-H Wash the spinach leaves and put them, still wet, into a pan over a moderate heat. Cover tightly with a lid and let them cook for a minute or two until wilted. Remove the leaves, drain them and squeeze out most of the moisture. It’s almost impossible to conceive of the past 20 years of food renaissance without Anthony Bourdain’s brilliant writing and documentary making. Woolever collaborated on his books, was his lieutenant during the later years of his life and since his death in 2018 has compiled the stories of 90 of his friends, colleagues and family. This unique oral history builds to a comprehensive portrait and an important emotional and psychological biography. TH Place the apricots on the pastry, four or five halves to each tart, steering clear of the rim. Slide the baking sheet on top of the hot baking sheet in the oven and bake for 10-12 minutes, till the pastry is puffed and golden.



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