Highlight almost all the gold with Scale 75 Dwarven Gold, leaving the Necro Gold in just the recesses. Start highlighting the majority of the armour in Citadel Mournfang Brown. This is where the process becomes a bit repetitive and this step is the most time consuming because you’re painting most of the model but being careful about leaving the previous stage showing at the bottom parts of the armour panel. Using pure white, edge highlight the blade, and the inner cleft of the blade, as well as the power nodes I start by brushing on Citadel Khorne Red. If there’s any browns left I try to leave these showing in the recesses.

How to paint Iron Warriors Armour - 2019 - FauxHammer How to paint Iron Warriors Armour - 2019 - FauxHammer

Mix this in with your Retributor Armour if you want to airbrush it, or simply want it to flow a tad better off your brush. Crag – I used Fuegan Orange shade, then a tiny bit of Carroburg Crimson to the edges of the crags. I then used a very thin brush to add some white to the central areas of the crags. This was to give the impression that the more open areas were white hot, while the edges were cooler.Gives a warm, antique gold colour. I then drybrush with the shining gold, and occasionally do some *very* light highlights with Mithril Silver. Blood Games by Dan Abnett is a short story set within the Emperor’s Palace and what Custodes do when they’re not fighting. Every one has their own secret sauce for the gold on their Custodes. I wanted to go for a slightly more antiqued look from the usual bright retributor armor color. First, I airbrushed the entire model with Vallejo Game Color Hammered Copper, then did a zenithal highlight of Vallejo Model Air Gold. For those without an airbrush, you could easily paint the model in Hammered Copper and drybrush a gold over top. If you’re working with GW Paints, I’d recommend Screaming Bell or Brass Scorpion, then a drybrush of Liberator Gold or Golden Griffon. Next I worked on a few different aspects. The first was the gold armour. I’m not sure why, but I love painting the Stormcast armour, and it’s one of the reasons I’ve been doing a air few of them over the past few months. It seems like there’s a lot of smooth surface to do some nice lighting, but enough detail to keep them interesting. Possibly my favourite miniature for painting at the moment. Anyhow, I did the gold in the same way to this video, with the layers from start to finish listed below:

How to use retributor armour spray? : r/Warhammer40k - Reddit How to use retributor armour spray? : r/Warhammer40k - Reddit

You could also airbrush the suggested Scale75 triad above, but then thin them with Tamiya X20A thinner instead of water. Again, highlight with a brown, only this time use Citadel Balor brown. Again, highlight even less of the armour Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: Do you paint a lot of gold in your miniatures? If there’s a gold metallic paint you prefer, let me know in the comments. I’m always looking for better ways to get the miniature painting job done!Drybrush the darker metal areas with Ironbreaker, and highlight the lighter areas with Scale 75 Heavy Metal. Fortunately, I did not have any of these problems with Greedy Gold. Notice that I tried the final prototype, but I was assured it is the real deal. Should I notice a difference to the retail version, I will update this post accordingly. The Allarus Terminators are fussier than the Custodian Guards, because their pauldrons are overhangs and their little turtle heads make a “dead zone” for paint unless you hit that area from just the right angle. Rather than scrub them I thought that, it’s only the front of two of them that’s badly effected, so I’ll see how they look painted up. As it turns out, it’s not too bad. The finish clearly won’t be as smooth, but painted right and you can’t tell too much from a distance. Onto the painting While I use paints from a bunch of different ranges, Citadel Colour still makes up the majority of my collection. Whether you’re painting Warhammer armies, your Dungeons & Dragons character or the miniatures from your favourite board game, you can’t go too far wrong with them.

Retributor Armour : r Ultra Marine Balthasar Gold and Retributor Armour : r

I don’t know about you, but so far I haven’t found a golden spray primer that satisfies me. First of all, there are only a few hobby companies that sell gold spray paint. Retributor Armour spray from Games Workshop is extremely expensive, and the gold hue doesn’t really match Retributor Armour Base paint. I found this comparison picture on Reddit, and as you can see, the spray paint on the right is very different from the Base paint: Source: Reddit, unknown poster The Retributor Armor spray that GW does is decent enough, but I've been told that there's a better way: Overall, I really enjoyed the opportunity to paint each of the Traitor Legions, and I’ve added a new skill to my hobby arsenal. I’m very keen now to begin another new Legion, and hopefully, with what I’ve learned in the last few weeks I can speed paint an army to readiness and still maintain a great finishing standard. Pendulin’s Shadowkeepers scheme can be found in a separate article – How to Paint Everything: Adeptus Custodes Shadowkeepers. My spray just did that to me, which I find weird, since for the beginning of the priming session, it worked like a charm.Hair – Added Fire Dragon Bright to Mephiston Red and highlighted the hair, then added a little more Fire Dragon Bright and highlighted the highlights. Base Metallic paints generally have poor coverage. Gold metallics in particular have been troublesome for me. It is both a yellow-ish color (which are generally hard to use already), and oftentimes don’t carry the warm-hue and color saturation that makes gold feel…gold. If you do have any questions or suggestions on how to improve it for others, then please do let me know. Great online store for board games. They always arrive perfectly and undamaged which is important to me.

Alternative for Retributor Armour? : r/minipainting - Reddit Alternative for Retributor Armour? : r/minipainting - Reddit

I'm liking Athonian Camoshade as a wash over the retributor spray, especially when paired with highlights of Liberator Gold and a 50/50 mix of Liberator Gold and Stormhost Silver. However, I may either need to let my pot dry out a tiny bit or get another; it goes on fairly light for me and seems to produce "rings" in the recesses if doing a targeted wash. Alternatively, I might try mixing with a bit of Agrax. I used to hate painting gold. No matter what I tried, it always came down to painstakingly applying thin layer after thin layer to build up the opacity and it still wouldn’t look great anyway. Thankfully, metallic paints have come on a long way and Retributor Armour is one of the best of the bunch. It covers remarkably well and gives a bright, yellowish gold that is really versatile. But it depends on the type of gold, like for a more aged antique gold I'll paint it up from brown as normal but give the gold a drybrush of leadbelcher then a sepia wash to give it a more dulled kind of washed out look. I thought one can would cover 21 infantry models and 6 bikes. It actually covered 14 infantry models (1 Trajann, 1 Vexilus Praetor, 6 Allarus, 6 Custodians) and the bases for the 6 bikes. A community for painting miniatures and models. Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun!A note on metallic paint. What makes it metallic is usually aluminum flakes incorporated into the paint. What can happen in a thin layer the aluminum flakes do not cover the entire area. This hurts the metallic effect. Make up a mix 1:1 Baharroth:White and thin it right down to a glaze. I used Vallejo mediums for this, but Lahmian Medium would work just fine. You want it pretty transparent. Softly highlight the middle of the blade in a band across it. If the blade is really long you might want to do one wide band like this and then one thinner one either side. Use strokes running along the angle away from the tip, this helps it look sharp That took me about 75 minutes, including time spent waiting for stuff to dry, so spraying the other 6 infantry and all 6 bikes shouldn’t take any longer than that. Maintains shine or reflective properties – the metallic paint needs to keep its shine as its applied. Some metallics don’t hold their reflective properties unless they are applied in a certain way. I think this is due to how the metal flakes are aligned within the paint as it dries on the miniature. The colour is bright enough to have plenty of pop and the consistency helps it flow into places where water would naturally accumulate and cause rust. Having to gradually build up layers of thin, translucent paint helps avoid going too far, making it very beginner-friendly if you're learning how to paint miniatures.