Other four-slot models worth considering are the Dualit 4 Slot Lite or Hotpoint TT 44E instead. And if money’s no object then the KitchenAid Artisan Toaster is rather lovely. Verdict I toasted crumpets on a browning level of 5 and found them to be well cooked and easy to remove from the toaster. Unlike many toasters, you don’t push the levers up to give the toast an extra lift, instead it sits extra high in the first place. Toasting is very even and I do like the design. But this business of tipping up could be a deal-breaker if you’re ham-fisted or just someone who makes family breakfast like a whirlwind. But treat this toaster more gently and it will treat you well.

I toasted two slices of white bread vertically and two horizontally (they only just fitted) to test evenness. I set it for a middle-of-the-road browning level of 4. There was an immediate problem: I pushed both levers down simultaneously, perhaps a little bit forcefully, and the whole toaster tipped towards me. But I did get it to work by pushing down more gently. Both sides popped up after 2 minutes 50 seconds and were well browned and remarkably even. In fact, it was impossible to tell which pair had been toasted horizontally and which vertically. Impressive.